Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Spaces
Each 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered station. Nearby, a police siren pierces the near-constant traffic drone. Commuters hurry past falling apart, ivy-draped fencing panels as rain clouds form.
This is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a well-established vineyard. But one local grower has cultivated four dozen established plants heavy with round purplish grapes on a rambling garden plot sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of Bristol town centre.
"I've seen individuals concealing illegal substances or whatever in the shrubbery," states the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several urban winemaker. He's pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who produce wine from four hidden urban vineyards tucked away in private yards and community plots throughout Bristol. The project is sufficiently underground to possess an official name so far, but the collective's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Wine Gardens Across the Globe
So far, the grower's allotment is the only one listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming global directory, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the hillsides of Paris's historic artistic district neighbourhood and over 3,000 grapevines overlooking and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a initiative reviving urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking countries, but has discovered them all over the world, including cities in East Asia, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.
"Grape gardens help urban areas remain more eco-friendly and more diverse. These spaces protect land from construction by establishing permanent, productive farming plots within urban environments," says the association's president.
Like all wines, those created in cities are a result of the earth the plants thrive in, the vagaries of the weather and the individuals who tend the fruit. "A bottle of wine embodies the charm, local spirit, landscape and heritage of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.
Unknown Eastern European Grapes
Back in the city, the grower is in a urgent timeline to harvest the vines he cultivated from a plant left in his garden by a Polish family. If the precipitation arrives, then the birds may take advantage to feast again. "Here we have the enigmatic Eastern European variety," he says, as he cleans damaged and rotten berries from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they're definitely disease-resistant. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this is possibly a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Collective Activities Across Bristol
Additional participants of the collective are also making the most of bright periods between showers of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking the city's shimmering harbour, where historic trading ships once floated with casks of vintage from France and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately 50 plants. "I love the aroma of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she says, pausing with a container of fruit resting on her arm. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the car windows on vacation."
The humanitarian worker, 52, who has spent over two decades working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her family in recent years. She experienced an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This plot has already endured three different owners," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the concept of natural stewardship – of handing this down to someone else so they continue producing from this land."
Terraced Gardens and Traditional Winemaking
A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has established more than 150 plants perched on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the silty River Avon. "People are always surprised," she notes, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing grapevine lines in a city street."
Currently, Scofield, 60, is harvesting bunches of dusty purple dark berries from rows of plants arranged along the cliff-side with the assistance of her daughter, her family member. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on Netflix's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbor's vines. She has learned that hobbyists can produce interesting, enjoyable natural wine, which can sell for more than seven pounds a glass in the growing number of wine bars focusing on low-processing wines. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can actually make good, natural wine," she states. "It is quite fashionable, but in reality it's reviving an old way of making vintage."
"When I tread the fruit, all the natural microorganisms come off the skins and enter the liquid," says the winemaker, partially submerged in a container of tiny stems, pips and red liquid. "That's how wines were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to kill the wild yeast and then incorporate a lab-grown yeast."
Difficult Conditions and Creative Solutions
In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who inspired his neighbor to plant her vines, has gathered his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred plants he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who worked at the local university developed a passion for wine on regular visits to Europe. But it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the dampness of the valley, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to make French-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers," admits the retiree with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."
"My goal was creating European-style vintages in this environment, which is rather ambitious"
The temperamental local weather is not the sole problem faced by grape cultivators. The gardener has had to install a barrier on